Hot Bodies D8

[gatermaxx]

This buggy looks really good to me. After watching Ty Tessman wheel his around the track at the Manufacturer's Cup a few weeks back, I am more anxious to try this buggy. I have also heard it has been pushed back to mid-September (probably after the Worlds is over) for release.

[cheesecake]

it will be one of the best buggys under 400:thumbs:

[gatermaxx]

Looks to be, maybe even under $500, LOL

[gatermaxx]

Well, I will hopefully have a new D8 delivered to my house next week. I promise to do my best on a write up on the build, and maybe even on a few test laps, or tanks :rock:

[cheesecake]

cool :thumbs:

[Grasshopper]

Gator : please do ! :thumbs:

I have been really considering giving this buggy a ride. It looks sweet and the price is right.

Just very hard for me to not go Mugen, as I have been Mugen faithful for a long time.

Kinda got the itch to try something different though and this buggy is tops on my list.

This one or the O'Donnell buggy - but I fear poor parts availability with the O'Donnell.


I am very interested to hear all about the Hot Bodies buggy.

[gatermaxx]

My Buggy is scheduled to arrive sometime Thursday:rock:. If it is anything like today (been waiting for the 4wd electric buggy to get here ALL DAY):cussing:, should be interesting. Hope the wife is gone, WOOPS:eek:.
I have run Kyosho only in buggy (very little time with any other car, maybe a lap here or there) and run Kyosho ST-RR and Mugen MBX5T in Truggy.
my only true build experience with a kit is my Kyosho ST-RR and my ZX-5, so I will be basing my write up upon that factor. Yes, I am now a sponsored driver:winner:, but I will try to be honest in my opinions.

[scoobie]

SWEET DUDE!!! Congrats on the factory ride Rod!

[gatermaxx]

Thanks, it is a partial deal, but better then anything else I have been getting, and I have been checking out the D8 for quite a while, and I enjoy running 4wd mod buggy, it relaxes me. Right place at the right time. Might be some Kyosho stuff for sale if my son doesn't want to run it...

[Grasshopper]

Sponsored by Hot Bodies ?


That's awesome man.

[JohnCary]

I've got the Hot Bodies D8 as well. Looks like I'll be meeting with Josh Alton (engineer of the D8) this week at Thunder Alley raceway in Beaumount, Ca. I've got my buggy built up with Ko Propo servos, Orion .21 CRF, Orion pipe, AKA Tires,and a Spektrum DX3R radio system. I'll give you guys and update as to how the buggy drives. So far I'm running the stock factory setup.

[gatermaxx]

Very nice John, Luck of living in SoCal, LOL.
I would love to hear how the stock set up is, what composition of track do you run on normally as well.
:thumbs:

[gatermaxx]

Wow, opened up the D8, and each package was labeled with each step it went with, and had the hardware for that step included, top notch, even more detailed then the D4 was.

[JohnCary]

Studio Images of my D8:

http://www.nitroaddicts.com/forums/imagehosting/33848cb5331b23f5.jpg

http://www.nitroaddicts.com/forums/imagehosting/33848cb5332e7a9f.jpg

http://www.nitroaddicts.com/forums/imagehosting/33848cb53332d9da.jpg

incase any of you are wondering... TRU-RC did the wrap on the body.

I spent most of today testing the new D8 at thunder alley along with Travis Amezcua, Atashi Hara, and Josh Alton(design engineer for the D8). Went with a much different shock oil setup from the base setup. 450wt front, 700wt rear, and blue springs in the front. The D8 feels pretty good. It doesn't like to be man handled, just an easy drive (but still fast). I'm heading to Santa Barbara on Sunday for a race to further test the rig. So far... the D8 is an awesome rig for the money.

[gatermaxx]

Wow, started the build today (finally, 6 days later). Started at noon, had the front end complete, and center diff and linkages installed by 3 (just over an hour faster then it took for the D4 to the same spot). Not having to cut parts from the trees, or dig for screws kicks arse. Fit and finish are super. Instructions are WAY easier to follow then the ones from my ST-RR were, it seemed with that build I was always having to go back and find what was missing, or a part had been installed wrong with the Kyosho.
Hope to finish both tonight. Going to try the kit set-up adn see how it rolls.

[porkchop]

sponsored by hot bodies the car golden on the track i love ever lap i get to run

[gatermaxx]

finished the build tonight (finally), have about 6 hours total in the build (I am very detail oriented, so I take my time, and make sure everything is smooth, and use a good coat of grease where needed. Tomorrow, paint the body, and mount the engine, fuel lines, and hook up radio gear. Hopefully hit the track tomorrow as well (have to drive 1.5-2 hours I bet to get to a track, DOH)

[voodoo427]

if its golden then why you wanting to put ae shocks on it porkchop :D

[gatermaxx]

Hot Bodies D8, placing 4 buggies in the World's final (3 of them stock) and HB Driver Atsushi Hara taking the win by one second over Mike Truhe, who had come back from 14 seconds down over the final few laps (they say Hara was on cruise control).
Hara had some modifications on his buggy Taller rear tower and longer rear shocks, adn lightnened chassis, and drive train parts.

[gatermaxx]

I will get some pictures up tomorrow:thumbs:

[porkchop]

:blbl: that was be4 i ran it
no need for ae shocks just drive the thing straped

[gatermaxx]

Here are a few pics, i took 21, but the POS camera I was using sucks, and my wife has all the empty SD cards....
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/gater75/Hot%20Bodies/D8/Stuff923001.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/gater75/Hot%20Bodies/D8/Stuff923003.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/gater75/Hot%20Bodies/D8/Stuff923011.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/gater75/Hot%20Bodies/D8/Stuff923013.jpg
More to come later

[iLL-Mitch]

Can you post up a pic of the front end w/out tires.... thnx

[scoobie]

yeah, I wanna see front end pics too.

Amezcuas Worlds setup is on sgrid...Ill put it up here later if someone else doesnt beat me to it.

[scoobie]

got this from sgrid, but apparently it originated at rctech...from Travis himself

Here is my setup from the 2008 Ifmar worlds.

Front: Shocks 1.3 pistons 400 wt oil HB with full rebound white front
springs shock length 99mm. Ride height is 28mm. # 3 on tower # 1 on
arm. camber link is #3 on tower #1 on caster block. -1 camber toe out
2. Stock front sway bar.

Rear: Shocks 1.3 pistons 400 wt HB with full rebound grey rear
springs. Shock length 101. #3 on rear tower #2 on rear arm. Ride
height is 29mm. Camber link #6 on tower #1 on hub. -2 camber. Also we
ran the hub in the upper hole. Wing is number #2. Rear hubs forward.

Diff oil. 5K front 7K center 2K rear.

[Rattler]

sound like it would work pretty good.

[gatermaxx]

I had taken 21 pics, but most were blurry BAD, need the good camera. I am swapping my shock springs out tomorrow. Running Thursday, more pics tomorrow. THe fornt end is all plastic, the carriers and uprights, similar to an electric 4wd buggy.

[scoobie]

Or you could say, similar to a Lo$i??? :)

[voodoo427]

or similar to a xray.. alot closer to a xray but with a different radiotray. i do like the hotbodies radio tray. they could also say its faster then a kyosho scoobie :D

[scoobie]

yeah, and faster than a Losi, AE, Jammin, OFNA, and most importantly...XRAY :P

[voodoo427]

yup

[porkchop]

faster then anything i have drove

[gatermaxx]

Well, finally got to run the D8 on Sunday. Ran the box set up, except i went heavier rear diff oil, and heavier rear shock oil. Previously i had been running a 777 SP2, big bores, and i put the lightened swing shafts on the front and rear before the last race I had run. So, i run the D8 this weekend, felt way more consistent with this buggy. Car was much more planted, jumped better, and was more responsive. Rough handling was roughly the same. I did not really set my brakes up, so I had kit setting (50:50), and full throw on the servo, so it was all 4, right now, LOL (luckily i dont really use my brakes much, but when i needed them, it was a wasted effort). The rear of the car felt loose in 2 of the off power 180s, one was a little hop into the corner and then hammer down around 3/4 of a trioval, the other as at the end of a little 15 foot stint, and had craters after the corner. I think this could have been due to having M3 bowties on (I usually run holeshots, but during quals, the track was dry for our heat each time) and the main the track had some moisture. Should have taken my gators down with me, but i was rushed in the morning anyways. Onpower steering was perfect, I had some wicked drifts coming through the tri-oval sweepers a few times, it was sweet.

[JohnCary]

I went with a slightly different setup on the D8.
Shocks:
450wt oil in the front, inside hole on both top and bottom, blue springs.
700wt in the rear, mid hole on top, inside hole on bottom

I was running the stock diff oil setup and found the car to have a very loose rear end and hard to keep settled. I brought the rear camber link up one hole and changed the diff oil from 1k to 3k. This made a world of difference. Now I can accelerate out of corners with out having the rear end break loose or land a jump wondering which way its going to rotate.

The Blue springs help take some of the steering out of the car making it more manageable. The D8 has tons of steering!!

[scoobie]

Does the kit include shock/diff oils?

[gatermaxx]

it comes with 5000, 4000 and 1000, just enough to fill the diff, and have a pinch left over. Shock oil, I forgot mine in Pullman when I went down to Lewiston to finish the buggy, but there is just enough to fill the shocks, barely.

[scoobie]

Well, I decided to go ahead and try the D8 out...does this mean Im done with Kyosho???? No, just testing the waters while I wait for my MP9...

I am really excited about trying something different after having run the same car for 3 years...

[scoobie]

I will have the car sometime after 12 PM today....

[scoobie]

Ive got the car in hand, the packaging and everything looks really good. The way the bags are all labeled with the coresponding step is a nice touch as well...

Havent been able to start the build yet though...snapped off a head bolt in a block and need to get it out. I knew I shouldnt have gave it that last little twist :(

[gatermaxx]

nice, the build will go very fast, I thin the longest step is building the shocks and radio tray (you will need to modify the battery box for the wiring so the wires do not need to run under the throttle servo)

[scoobie]

Rod, can you elaborate on the radio box mod a little bit? Maybe with pics?

[s&sracing]

Ive got the car in hand, the packaging and everything looks really good. The way the bags are all labeled with the coresponding step is a nice touch as well...

Havent been able to start the build yet though...snapped off a head bolt in a block and need to get it out. I knew I shouldnt have gave it that last little twist :(



when you get tired of it scoob pass it this way i'll give it a try lol:thumbs:

[gatermaxx]

I just used my exacto knife and made the hole larger (taller and wider), you will see when you put your throttle servo in, the wire goes right into the battery box and pretty much takes up most of that hole. I took my exacto and also trimmed on the side right next to the throttle servo (to the outside), so I could route one of the wires between the servo and the plastic shield, and the other 2 wires (receiver and other servo) on the inside of the throttle servo.

[gatermaxx]

you could also drill a hole in the battery box and run the wires inside of the throttle servo, if you so desired.

[Grasshopper]

No Lipo receiver packs for this buggy ? :cussing:
How ya gonna run a long main with a 1600mAh NiMH hump pack? This blows !
If anyone has any ideas please do tell.

I cut a complete slot out of the outside wall of the battery box and routed all of the wires out this whole and along the outside edge of the box, up under the personal transponder mount and into the receiver section that way. It was way too tight to run them on the inside between the box and the center portion of the chassis, and too close to the spur gear IMO.

Well I am not at all happy about running NiMH RX pack, but at least the build was a very nice experience.

I will post again after driving it.

[voodoo427]

the venom 1200mah lipo pack fits in it.

[scoobie]

So my protek 2000mah pack wont fit??? DAMNIT!!!! Ive got the car built...everything but the radio tray...so Im going to see what I can do to make it work.

The car went together great, parts fit and finish was really good too...not the best Ive seen, but still very nice. The only trimming I had to do wasnt even really necessary...there were little nubs on top of the shock caps that werent completely cut off from the factory. 2 seconds with a exacto knife and they are butter smooth.

Another thing that took me by surprise...the shocktowers! From the looks of the adds in the magazines, they look like cheap stamped, non-finished towers. To my amazement, they are CNC machined, hard anodized pieces...VERY nice. The other thing that made me really happy, NO PURPLE ANYWHERE! I hate the color purple and stripping the purple ano parts was something I had planned on doing...gladly, it was un-necessary.

I think its a scary time for some of the manufacturers in the industry...when a car this nice can be produced for less than $400, and even scarier, when the car has proven itself as a top contender for less than $400...I think this car is going to put a huge hurt on the big name companies, not only in overall sales, but on the track too.

So tonight, Im going to mount up the radio gear, and engine...pics will follow.

[scoobie]

Well crap, after looking at the radio tray, the only way I see gettin the lipo to fit, is to put the lipo in the rx box and the rx in the battery box. The problem I see with that is the switch housing is connected to the rx box, and the antenae mount it also part of the rx box. It could be done, with maybe some extensions and a standalone antanae mount...but I dont really want to hack it up. Decisions decisions....

[Grasshopper]

http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq225/AMainHobbies/PRO_9574.jpg


http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq225/AMainHobbies/PRO_9575.jpg


http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/qq225/AMainHobbies/PRO_9576.jpg


Here is my wiring set up Scoob.

[scoobie]

Well, I did get everything shoe horned in, without cutting any extra holes...

I put the battery in the rx box, so Im going to have to mount a seperate antanae holder to the 'new' rx box...so far it looks clean. Will post pics when done...

[Grasshopper]

Scoobie is like a magician on the workbench !


A wizard !



Please share your set up when completed.

I had to use a 6" servo extension lead to get my steering servo wire to the RX box. ( as seen on top of the transponder mount in the photos ) . Conveniently the openings were just right so the plug is held together by the wire routing, and I have servo tape holding it in place. It's not gonna come unplugged.

I will say that I like the idea of having the battery weight up front. I think that will affect the handling and the attitude in the air very positively! It's not the weight of NiMH I am concerned about really.....it's the run time.

[Grasshopper]

Voodoo : do you have a link to that Venom pack ?

Lipo batteries are rated very conservatively. Thus a Lipo pack rated at 1200 mAh - probably in actual... is aprox. 1400 mAh. 'which is not bad'... but it's not the 2300-2500 (rated ) mAh I am used to running.

Having to charge your RX pack after every heat and before the main is so : two years ago . :shoot:

[JohnCary]

Running the battery in the receiver box defeats the purpose of the design. The battery was moved forward so that there would be more forward weight in the chassis thus giving the D8 more steering. just get a small lipo pack... GOSH!!!

[scoobie]

I dont think it will make a huge difference to put the battery in the rear...afterall, the engine just on the other side of it is much heavier. Also, after running lipo for the last year, Im not switching back to nimh...

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/scoobie1_76/2008_1003cohenpics0020.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/scoobie1_76/2008_1003cohenpics0022.jpg

Heres a few more shots of the car...
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/scoobie1_76/2008_1003cohenpics0017.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/scoobie1_76/2008_1003cohenpics0011.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/scoobie1_76/2008_1003cohenpics0012.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/scoobie1_76/2008_1003cohenpics0013.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/scoobie1_76/2008_1003cohenpics0014.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/scoobie1_76/2008_1003cohenpics0015.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/scoobie1_76/2008_1003cohenpics0016.jpg

[voodoo427]

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSFS7&P=SM

[Grasshopper]

Running the battery in the receiver box defeats the purpose of the design. The battery was moved forward so that there would be more forward weight in the chassis thus giving the D8 more steering. just get a small lipo pack... GOSH!!!

Nice! That's what I thought. BUT the question is = what small lipo pack ? !!!


after running lipo for the last year, Im not switching back to nimh...


Exactly !!!

Great pic's Scoobie. I love the center diff set up on this buggy and the brakes and linkage and stuff. Looks like it will work very well. The shocks feel very good too- straight out of the box as per the manual. I have added way more droop to my suspension arms though....... go figure...... Mugen guy.

[Grasshopper]

Thanks Voodoo !

It fits the battery box on the D8 huh? You sure? Length: 2.1" (57mm) - that doesn't sound like a fit to me.

[JohnCary]

I managed to shoe horn a common sense 1500 lipo receiver pack into the battery box. I then ran a extension wire to the receiver box where the voltage regulator seats.

[gatermaxx]

I ran on a 1600MiMH venom pack for 45 minutes the other day, plus set up of epa, travel, etc. battery took about 500 mAh in charge. Going to try my common sense battery today, and actually try differnt oils and tires to get a better set-up for the car.

[scoobie]

Grasshopper, what did you do to add more droop?

I know some guys are using longer shock ends, some are just unscrewing the shock end by a couple of mm's...I was wondering about the lack of droop, and whether or not its going to be problematic. Im going to drive it first before I do anything drastic...I dont want to use another brand shock, because the kit shocks are BAD ASS!!! No bleeding, no screwing around...they went together better than any shock Ive ever built. They had more rebound than I am used to, cause I usually build my shocks so there is NO rebound, and the HB shocks had FULL rebound when I filled them according to the directions. I may try building them with zero rebound the next time around...

I spent too much time on the phone with a buddy last night, so I never got my radio bound, or my engine preped. I will hopefully have pics up later tonight with all the goodness installed.

Now I have to talk W Designs into painting a lid for me...so Andy, if youre out there...PLEEEEEASE!!!!!!!

[gatermaxx]

I unscrewed my shock ends to 101.5 mm (Ty Tessman said you can got o 102mm with out pulling the shock end out). This should be good. I also forgot to mention I ran with the springs switched from the kit set up. this puts the firm springs in the front. I still ran stiffer oil in the rear though. Frickin rained here all day, so there are puddles on the track, but that is ok, tomorrow is going to be GOOOD at the track...

[scoobie]

here it is...ready for break in
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/scoobie1_76/2008_1005cohenpics0017.jpg

[JohnCary]

your putting the speed motor in that beesch? GOSH!! what diff oil setup did you do Scoob?

[scoobie]

5-7-2

[gatermaxx]

I kept the same settings i had last time, but ran gators, much better, I did however move the rear hub into the upper hole, and it felt much better. Rear was still just a touch loose, so tomorrow I am going to go and try some 552 at a different track (try it the way it is, and then the 552).

[porkchop]

7/7/4 :thumbs:

[JohnCary]

Scoob, I think you'll find the car to be too jumpy. after doing some testing with the car over the past few weeks i would suggest going down on your diff oils. Due to the fact the D8 is a fair bit lighter then the other buggies on the market, there is no need for heavier oils. if anything it will make the car hard to drive. I'm running 5,4,3 and its dialed. a lot of guys are even running 4,4,4.

Gatermaxx:
go to the thicker oil in the rear. the 1k oil in the rear makes the buggy a handful. I switched to 3k last week and I will probably never go any lighter unless i start running on a very small track.

[scoobie]

I decided to try it as per Amezcua's setup...I only used his diff oils, and ran the rear hubs in the upper holes, everything else is the stock setup

Here is my setup from the 2008 Ifmar worlds.

Front: Shocks 1.3 pistons 400 wt oil HB with full rebound white front
springs shock length 99mm. Ride height is 28mm. # 3 on tower # 1 on
arm. camber link is #3 on tower #1 on caster block. -1 camber toe out
2. Stock front sway bar.

Rear: Shocks 1.3 pistons 400 wt HB with full rebound grey rear
springs. Shock length 101. #3 on rear tower #2 on rear arm. Ride
height is 29mm. Camber link #6 on tower #1 on hub. -2 camber. Also we
ran the hub in the upper hole. Wing is number #2. Rear hubs forward.

Diff oil. 5K front 7K center 2K rear.

Im going to run about a gallon through it to break in the diffs, then I will make changes to the fluid weight...

[Grasshopper]

For added rebound I simply unscrewed the droop set screws in the a-arms a bit, and added a bit of preload to the springs. I did not stray far from the manual, as I want to test this thing in box stock form / set up as per the directions ( basically ) .

I have decided to accept the NiMH pack set up for now. Try as I might, I just could not find a lipo to fit. I emailed HPI and also talked to them on the phone and they assured me that Hara used a 1500 NiMH pack at the worlds. I also talked with Jaylude who runs NiMH. I member back when I raced prior to the whole Lipo scene and everything seemed ok then. I guess it's just a state of mind. Besides - I don't see myself running any Hour long mains anytime soon. I am not worried about the added weight so much, so figure I'll give it a go.

Got my Novarossi Plus .21-7 all bolted up and ready to go! Just waiting for some free time to hit the track for a shake down. :thumbs:

W-designs : I NEED PAINT ! :cry: PLEASE ! :D ! :confused:

I will post a box set up review once I git some track time.

I want to thank all those who have posted their thoughts so far and made recomendations. :thumbs:
I have heard your words.
However set up is a simbiotic relationship with driving style, and what works for dude#1 may not work for dude#2 , thus I will start from scratch with box set up as per the instructions and go from there.

[Grasshopper]

P.S.- I had to run 3 shims behind the flywheel and one in front of the clutch nut - to get the full width of the teeth on the spur gear to mesh with the clutch bell.

Never had to do that before.

Anyone else had to do this ?

[Supralative]

Here are some pics of mine so far.
I used the Kyosho ST-RR ball ends and ball on the steering links and swapped the Hotbodies D8 ball ends to the rear shocks for more length. Used the Ty Tessman set up with some shock oil changes to what I am used to running. We will see how that works this weekend...pending I get a starter box too. Waiting on my body from the my friend that paints and should be good to go. Build went together pretty good except for on CCW shock mount screw that was bent.
Using on old RB S5 for power with Airtronics 359's for servos controlled by Spektrum equipped 3PK.
http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20002.jpg
http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20003.jpg
http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20005.jpg
http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20006.jpg
http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20007.jpg

[scoobie]

Grasshopper, I used 1 shim, and got all the teeth on there, but the clutch bell isnt centered. Will probably need to put the rest on there to make it right....

[gatermaxx]

went up to 5|7|2 yesterday, was better but was still not perfect. Thursday I will have all day to run, and am going to try going to 5|5|2. I need some longer rear springs, I can not get full action in the back of the buggy (sitting below bones level after impact) with these grey springs in back, and i have full preload set. Will try with the springs as the kit settings as well.

[voodoo427]

scoobie needs to send me that d8 for testing

[scoobie]

gater, I wonder if kcar front springs would work?

Voodoo...hahahahahahahahahahaahahahahahahahhahahah ahahahahahahahahahahahaha....

[voodoo427]

hey scoobie you know what the stock vspec settings are.

[scoobie]

Break in settings are in the manual...somewhere around here there is a 'ball park' setting that I got from sgrid.

I havent fired my speed yet. Hoping to get it going today once I get all my office work done.

[gatermaxx]

I don't know, I think I am going to drop the rear oil to 1400 and see, I think it is just too thick, decent traction. I was going to try some kyosho springs, but got left at home today, instead of being able to spend all day at the track like i had planned.... Might dry test them here...

[scoobie]

voodoo, I found it, here ya go...

Remove the carb insert and set the idle gap to .5mm. Set the low speed needle flush with the body, then set the mid needle to flush, with the top groove of the screw pointing at the 2 o'clock position. For the HSN go three turns out from closed.

That should put you in a good spot to retune from. The only needle you wont need to touch is the mid.

[voodoo427]

thanks scoobie.

[scoobie]

gater, is it that the springs are too short, or just too soft? Have you tried grey's front and rear? I have purple, green and blue Kcar front springs, so I may give them a shot if needed. On the table I havent had any problems with shock rebound...I set the ride height to kit settings with the AE guage, so far so good. It comes back to the right measurement whether I drop it from a couple feet or just push on the chassis. How much rebound did you build into your shocks? When I built mine according to the manual, I got FULL rebound.

[gatermaxx]

I have only tried the stock springs. The gray springs (for me at least) are too short, or too soft, or both for the rear shocks. I just put on a set of Kyosho light green buggy front springs ( http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/14947 ).
They fit perfectly, and I can achieve bones level with no pre-load (body on and fuel in buggy). Buggy seems to be good on the bench, going to have to wait until maybe tomorrow to test though, unless I can sneak down to my buddies personal track, I cant beleive she wouldn't let me go to the track today, it is 20 minutes from her school, what a joke...

[scoobie]

damn woman... 8^P

[porkchop]

xray 808 front springs work
i order 4 slivers
and 4 gray blues
and something eles to mess with
the stock springs are 60 mm long 808 are 63 :winner:

[Grasshopper]

Ok, here is a fresh pic of my buggy chassis as it was received out of the box. Notice the cracked hard anodizing. I know that some people out there would create a big " to do" about receiving something like this. I just want to say that I am not at all put out by this. The chassis was meant to take abuse and protect all the goodies on top. I know it will take much punishment as soon as it hits the track, so something like this is IMO - no big deal. Just wanted to share my opinion with everyone and hopefully convince others to relax a bit and take it easy when purchasing RC stuff. It's not all meant for show...... it's meant for GO ! :D :thumbs: P.S. - to clarify : I know I have a different outlook on purchases than the average joe, me being a sponsored RCer, and if this was a $850.00 Kyosho buggy I might have sent the chassis back to Kyosho with a cordial letter asking them WTF. (LOL).

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg202/Grahamton/dd_d8_5.jpg

I know some of you Kyosho homers are saying " well that would never happen with a Kyosho buggy" .
If you believe that...... I have a gently used motor I'd like to sell you. Less than 5 tanks ran on it !

[Grasshopper]

Here are some more general pics as it's the last time this thing will ever be so clean.
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg202/Grahamton/dd_d8_3.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg202/Grahamton/dd_d8_2.jpg

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg202/Grahamton/dd_d8_1.jpg

Time to give it a shake down run!:rock:

Oops - one more :
http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg202/Grahamton/dd_d8_4.jpg

[Grasshopper]

AS SHE SITS : 7lb. 13.68oz

I don't know if that's good or bad, but it doesn't matter much when I'm going flat out like a lizard drinking. !:winner:

[scoobie]

I hope you adjust your rear ride hieght before you get it dirty...lol

29mm ride hieght front and rear as per the kit setup...-1* camber all the way around...

[porkchop]

I hope you adjust your rear ride hieght before you get it dirty...lol

29mm ride hieght front and rear as per the kit setup...-1* camber all the way around...
-1 front -1.5 rear sir

[Grasshopper]

Does my ride height look off?

I haven't put it on a set up board yet, and don't have a fancy ride height gauge. It looks good to me - much lower than my Mugen. :D This buggy kit is slammed to the deck with much less shock travel than I am used to - obviously.

I will throw it on the track as is, and just go for it.

Gatermax : your take on the shock springs is spot on. I think they are too short and too soft. However I have not driven it yet so will make my judgement after driving. Thanks for the tip on the Kyosho springs. That's very good to know!
The shocks feel really good, just not a lot to work with in terms of preload and travel.

Thanks also to Porkchop. I would much rather have Xray 808 springs than Kyosho springs if I had to substitute. ( not a Kyosho fan, as if you couldn't tell )

[T.mt.raceway]

grasshopper bring it by some time I think scoobie is coming over with his this weekend.

[Grasshopper]

Scoobie is scared to come to Paradise for a head to head match! :eek:

Or perhaps I am scared to go to TM Raceway for same. :D


:blbl:


Thanks for the invite Randy, Sat. is the new buggy shake down in P-town. Mugen MBX6 vs. Hot Bodies D8. I will be there in hopes of driving both, as well as my MBX5R, all in comparison to one another, and in relation to individual driving style and set ups. Should be a very educational driving session...... provided I get my butt out of bed before noon and get out there.

[scoobie]

Im going to put mine on the track this weekend, but its going to be early in the break in, so no all out racing yet...but I did put my Picco P3 in my SP2! Can you say OVERKILL?!?!?!?!?!?!

[Grasshopper]

Scoob- that's why I dropped in the Nova motor.... no break in, just driving.



Heck who am I kidding.... that motor has been sitting in my pit box for a year now, probably won't run for s#*t. I'll most likely spend the whole day chasing a tune on the motor and learn nothing of the buggy. :shoot:

:cussing:


Anyway- if you want to hang out and shoot the s#*t with us up here, your more than welcome. You too Randy..... and all the O-boys.

[scoobie]

Weve got a tractor coming saturday and a work day planned...we had talked about running on sunday too though! So if you guys wanna come down then, youre more than welcome. Besides it will give you a chance to run the car after you tune it, and get it on a bigger track...let that 7 port eat!!!

[tommy2112]

well igot see grasshoppers d8 run today and ill say is its looks sweet and ran very well ! the only thing that seemed wrong was that the rear was really loose , but that could be because of the track ? but i did like it !

[gatermaxx]

mine was loose as well, I think 2000 is too thick for the back, as well as the grey springs to soft. even when i stepped up to 572, it seemed loose
I am going to drop the center to 5000,a dn drop the rear to 1000 (each in a step, not at once). I also want to see how the kyosho rear springs hold up.

[Supralative]

Ran mine this past weekend also.
TQ'd and won Sportsman.
Rear end was loose but everything else was pretty good. I would like more suspension also.

[Grasshopper]

Well, after running the car for the first time, my first impression was " wow" this buggy is very planted and easily predictable.

At first the back end seemed to step out when jumping on the power in the exit of a turn, but once I had figured that out, and adjusted my driving style accordingly, I was able to turn some pretty fast and consistent lap times.

The back end would not step out unexpectedly.... rather it was very predictable. As was the overall buggy handling - in the rough stuff, over the jumps, through the turns, and on the straights. I have to say I was quite impressed. I was even drifting in control through the high speed turn and onto the straightaway - which was very fun.

This buggy handles very well and instills confidence in your driving because you know what it's going to do at all times.

I swapped the Bow Ties for Crime Fighters and the somewhat loose rear end went away dramatically. I did not make any set up changes, and the buggies back side stayed firmly in line, with these new tires on. I feel confident that I can run it hard with this box set up and be just as fast as I was with my Mugen, and more consistent to boot.

I will put it on a set up board, and make sure everything is dialed in equally ( I'm sure it's not now....coming straight off the build) . But I will not be making any changes to shock springs, shock oil, or diff oil. I plan to race it as is for now. I can really drive it well in it's stock form and don't feel like I have to change those things right away. Perhaps down the road, some slightly thicker oil in the rear diff , to see if that's even better - would be in order, but I don't think it's a must right away, as I can drive it good right now ( with Crime Fighters - and at my local track ) I know there are many variables involved from track to track.

Furthermore, nothing fell off during this shake down run ( LOL ) , nothing broke, and this buggy felt like an old friend after just a few tanks run. I am quite happy so far.

I highly recommend this buggy to anyone who wants a fast, easy to drive, consistent, and predictable racing platform that does not need to be hopped up, and majorly modded, to be successfull.

TWO THUMBS UP !



P.S - the Novarossi Plus .21-7BT ran like a dream, even after sitting in my box for a year. I even had the 6mm carb venturi in it, more than enough power, and was getting 9+ minutes a tank with a very rich setting ( could not find the 200+ deg. temp I was wanting ) I hope to lean it out a lot more and maybe even go 10-12 min. on a tank. More bottom end would be better here at the Paradise track, but I was impressed with the lack of maintenance needed after it had sat for so long, and how it fired up straight away and ran without issue all day - even richening up as the day went on, I kept leaning it out more and more, and it kept having more than enough power without the temps going up.

[voodoo427]

what do you think of that picco p3 scoobie.

[porkchop]

flip the springs white front gray rear
5/7/2 diffs are perfect

[scoobie]

what do you think of that picco p3 scoobie.


In a truggy, I always thought the engine was ok, but thats it. But it was lots of fun in a buggy...the clutch bell wasnt quite lined up to the spur right, and I didnt want to take the time to fix it, so I just ran it. I got 1500cc + of fuel through it before the clutchbell and spur disintegrated:shoot:. I was getting about 6+ minutes a tank of ham fisted driving with the stock venturi.

The bottom and mid range were unbelievable in comparison to .21's that Im used to. I was going to sell the whole engine/clutch/pipe setup, but now I think Im going to keep it just for kicks on play days...

[voodoo427]

cool i may have to look into getting one once i get rid of this vspec.

[porkchop]

the car only get better with time guys the long you run the less lose the ass end is give it time to come around:thumbs:

[BIG RED]

I ordered a D8, it should be here today, I've never been so stoked to build a kit:thumbs:

[gatermaxx]

Build will go fast.
GMK has just released his CVD condoms for the D8. He got the first set back from his manufacturer, and should be shipping them to dealers soon.

[gatermaxx]

scoob, chat:rock:

[BIG RED]

waiting for this thing to show up is like torture:cry:

[gatermaxx]

I had to go chase the fed ex guy down to get mine, LOL

[scoobie]

Pics, ready for break in...
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/scoobie1_76/2008_1015cohenpics0021.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/scoobie1_76/2008_1015cohenpics0019.jpg
http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n94/scoobie1_76/2008_1015cohenpics0018.jpg

[LUV DA AIR]

lookin good Matt.

Heres a funny one for you. My wife is always looking for cool paint scemes. I get home the other evening, and she says, "hey I found his BADASS paint job on the net." She saved into my favorites and pulls it up for me. I start cracking up soon as I seen it, and she is like "whats so funny?, that paint is AWESOME!" My reply "thats the car I got to pilot while I was in Cali." It was a pic of the "HAZ MATT" body on RC411.

[scoobie]

LMAO!!!! That is funny!

[pantera nitro]

looks awesome scoob :thumbs:

now all i need is some video footage :D

the BLUE wiggle!

[scoobie]

I started breaking in the engine yesterday...got two tanks through it. I had to lean out the Speed a turn and a half to get it to start!

Hoping to get about 500cc's through it before the weekend, so I can hit the track...

[pantera nitro]

happy days scoob.

are you happy with the kit quality?

[scoobie]

yes...for the $, its a great car.... http://www.nitroaddicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3770&page=4

[BIG RED]

I got mine all built and ready for action, I'm hoping to get it on the track tomorrow. build was very easy, the shocks are soooo smooth, I'm really looking forward to driving it

[Grasshopper]

Red - Nice !
I'm sure you will find it very fast and easy to drive.
Is your's box stock as mine is ?
Silver body looks hella cool :thumbs: I almost painted mine all chrome - as I had to do a quick, one color scheme, to hit the track on schedule. Went yella instead. It was my rattle can with the most paint still in it. LOL .
I think the shocks are the smoothest I have seen to date - just like buttah !
I wish they were a bit longer though. There are longer versions available, and I have sized them up, but you need to run the Lightning 2 shock towers along with them to get the full travel. I am going to talk to King Headz and see what they are planning for shock towers.... hopefully they will be of the 2 row hole design and slightly taller to accomodate the longer shocks.
I love how the shocks feel though, and I think the buggy works very well right out of the box. I am just used to more travel being a Mugen guy.

Please post you thoughts on the rear end after driving it for a bit. I understand the thought of going with different diff fluid, but I feel I should run the buggy stock for a bit before making any changes.
As Porkchop indicates... perhaps the rear end will tighten up on it's own. I know the proper tires make a huge difference. I found the buggy very fast even with a light rear end.

What do you think ?

[Grasshopper]

Scoobie - who did your paint ?

You want a yella wing and rims -the stock stuff ? - I didn't use mine. Let me know.

[BIG RED]

thanks for the compliments. my buggy is all stock with the exception of the kyosho wing, I always liked the way the gunmetal wing looked with my silver ST-RR body, so I just copied the scheme, and the kyosho wings drill dots are the same as HB. I barely had to trim the wing wrap kit to fit the kyosho wing. A guy on another forum was saying that the long rear shock setup that Hara ran at the worlds made for much more rear traction, at the cost of losing a bunch of steering(although the worlds track was blue groove, so I doubt it mattered there). I need to drive this thing first, then I can judge, but from what I saw at Riverfront RC a few weeks ago, I'm pretty confident that it will be fast for me

[Grasshopper]

The stock Lightning 2 wings are a direct fit as well - I am running the black one.

Funny - We called HPI/ Hot Bodies to ask them about Hara's shock tower at the worlds and they were unknowing/ or unwilling - to divulge such information. I really get the feeling that they are trying to hide/avoid the fact that the buggy was not box stock set up. They said that they would talk with him and when we call back tomorrow they will have some more info on that matter.

I really like the idea of longer shocks, being a Mugen guy, but not at the expense of steering , as I run mostly tight,technical tracks and like the consistent feel and awesome steering ability of the box stock set up.

I will post any new info I can dig up.

[Grasshopper]

HBS67298 (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/29597) Hot Bodies Big Bore Rear Shock Set (112mm) (2) (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/29597)

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/29597


HBSC8073-4 (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_24_106/products_id/2731) Hot Bodies 7075 4mm Lightened Rear Shock Tower (Lightning 2) (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_24_106/products_id/2731) ???????????

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_24_106/products_id/2731

[BIG RED]

I really don't care, if they say that the long shock setup was faster on blue groove, then so be it. They should however, tell all of us what was going on, if it's truly the hot ticket for all conditions, and they should offer it at a decent price for those of us that are already D8 owners. They might be working on a worlds edition car, who knows:confused:. It's pretty obvious in the pics of Hara's car that he was running a prototype tower that looks similar to, yet taller than the kit tower, and in the action shots, he obviously has a lot more droop than the car has right out of the box. BUT, all of the 3 other HB drivers were not rumored to have had any "trick" parts, and they all made the A, and made a pretty damn good showing, so props to that, if they did indeed run stock equipment

[scoobie]

grasshopper...I got the paint from a friend that owed me a favor:blbl:

Yeah, Ill take the wing and wheels off yer hands if yer not gonna use yeller...

[gatermaxx]

It was posted all over the place that Hara and another driver did not have a stock set up, but Tessman, Amezcua and Robbers were all running stock. Hara had a lightened chassis, different rear shocks and tower, and the drivetrain had been lightened.

[Supralative]

I got the long shocks on order, and I am hoping they have the taller rear shock tower in the near future.
I liked the buggy, but wanted just abit more rear traction.
Going to change the front pistons to 1.4 and try a different diff set up too to see if it helps in the mean time.

[lil ben]

No questions asked, hara was using longer rear shocks http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/xcgal/displayimage.php?pid=11470&album=150&pos=3

not so sure about the tower being different though?

either way, i'm very happy with my D8, handles well on our UK tracks, had the rear shock tower screws pull out the diff case on me, but done the old lightning trick and put a longer screw with a nyloc nut on the end, and that has sorted that one.

[scoobie]

I finally got my D8 out yesterday...I am VERY pleased with the car. Using the box stock setup, except for the diff fluids, the car was flat out amazing! I also used a set of AKA I-Beams on AKA wheels. The car could be made better with some setup tuning, and maybe a different set of tires, but overall with what I was running, the car was very driveable with the box stock setup.

The thing that impressed me most was the jumping abilities. With my SP2, if I wasnt squared up perfectly before I hit the jump, it was a 50/50 chance whether or not I would end up on the wheels. With the D8, it was almost like I could do no wrong. The car handled the jumps beautifully, instilling a level of confidence that Ive NEVER had on the track...EVER! There were many times that I thought I was going to wreck after I left the jump takeoff ramp, but 99% of the time I came back to earth rubber side down and was able to drive away. The few times I did wreck, whether jumping or not, the car seemed to come back to its tires with such consistency, that I really wasnt all that worried about a wreck. I knew there was a good chance I could drive away.

The car handled bumpy sections of the track perfectly...I see absolutely no need for longer rear travel unless maybe the track is blown out like a mine field. Between the setup and the tires, I could drive into the turns much harder than with my other car, with no risk of catching a rut, or traction rolling.

Acceleration was good too, considering the engine hasnt reached its full potential. After the first couple of break in tanks, the drivetrain was butter smooth...by the end of the day, it was better. Very little resistance. I have read a few things lately about the D8 front driveshafts breaking on hard wrecks. I wasnt really worried about it though, cause from what Ive read HB is taking care of the customers that got bad shafts. I wish I could say that I tested the durability of the shafts...I didnt cause I never wrecked hard enough to test them!

The steering was pretty good...it does have good steering, on and off power, but there was a mid/exit push off power that I need to dial out. Thats my only complaint with the car for now.

After a half gallon of runtime on the car, I am very pleased with my decision to try the D8. Now all I need to do is hit a race, and compare laptimes from the old car...but I can already tell, even after 1 day at the track, its faster than my SP2.

[gatermaxx]

mid exit push it what almost everyone has said. There were 5 of them at a race this weekend, mine was the lowest placed (that is what having 2 really bad qualifiers will do to you, and then getting taken out in lap traffic, and novice corner marshals).
I put on my CVD condoms Saturday night, you do have to dremel out the upright (as Gary said I would have to ), and if you run your rear hubs in the upper hole, you have to notch the rams.
Car was still loose in the back in my first qual, with some early exit push, and wrong tire choice. I switched to 5|5|2, and lowered rear ride height, adn raised front ride height. Switched out tires as well. In the midst of my tire changing, the pin in my right front cvd fell out (unbeknown to me), and someone put a gator soft on my left rear (or did i not change that tire out cause i was talking with someone about the car), so I went out for my 2nd qual with 3 wheel drive (right front cvd pin out) and 3 holeshots (left rear gator), car felt really funny in warm up, and was a little harder to drive, but was still almost a lap faster then my first run.
Third round, got the car dialed in by changing the rear turnbuckle length moved to the 6 hole on rear tower, and outer hole on hub, and ran raptor softs, car was dialed, was a little fat on the engine still, but the car felt the best it had ever felt, lost a lot of the rear push in exit, found great lines, and everything was coming together, just was a little rich on the engine, so I was slower then the car would have been. So, with 2 bad qualifiers, and one top 20 or so, I qualified pretty low. Tear the car down Saturday night, check the fluids, and bearings, and install the CVD condoms. Get to track, was cold, had been a little rich, so we figured with the colder air, the engine should have been about right for today to do some bumping. Well, warm ups went well, nothing out of the ordinary. Start the main, I was 6th, jumped up into third very quickly in the infield, and come around to the front straight, going full wood and start lean bogging, WTF. SO I started going hammer finger down the straight for the rest of the main so I could get some fuel in the carb, the bottom was so touchy, it was like a light switch, I think it was overly lean as well. So there was a 3 man bump, and i was cruising behind 1st and second, (we were about half a lap up on 4th), and we came up on our first big group of lap traffic, I overshot the double a little, but ended up with a great line through the s corner, and needled through about 3 guys, and got a little nudge by the 4th and it set me up for the next corner, when whammo, 4th comes full throttle at a 90 to me, and hits my left rear tire, flipping me over. Never could quite get it back, and didn't finish to well. The track had some blue groove, some loam, and some clay style, so tire choice, and mid exit push was common among all car brands. Now, 4wd buggy was an altogether different story, to be cont' over there...

[porkchop]

5/5/1 get rid all that stupid push
but once you can get a 2/2 blcok on this car you can go back to 2 in the rear and drive it straped i bet

[lil ben]

I have run my D8 for about a gallon now, i have popped out a rear outer hingepin when i hit a rut down the straight, ripped the shock tower screws out of my rear bulkhead when i hit the brakes too hard and endo'd and the wing hit the ground, and what was causing my OS to only get 6 and a half minutes to a tank... was the tank having a seriously bad leak in the side...

Not so sure i've made the right choice with this car now...

[porkchop]

it a brand new car they all have a few bugs
looks at the losi or rc8 they all had bug then they started

[gatermaxx]

Call HB at 1-888-349-4474 and see what they say.

[scoobie]

Yeah, from everything Ive read about the few minor probs with the car, HB is taking care of everything...so I guess that warranty sheet that comes with the car IS good for something.

[gatermaxx]

I forgot to mention I ran the kyosho lime green buggy front springs in the rear of my D8, had no preload, and the car was money. Suspension was just right action-wise for me, the car was hooked to the track. Only problem I had was when it was cold the engine was a little lean, so I had a little bit of lightning trigger going on (good thing I run electric and know how to roll into the throttle LOL).

[Supralative]

I forgot to mention I ran the kyosho lime green buggy front springs in the rear of my D8, had no preload, and the car was money. Suspension was just right action-wise for me, the car was hooked to the track. Only problem I had was when it was cold the engine was a little lean, so I had a little bit of lightning trigger going on (good thing I run electric and know how to roll into the throttle LOL).


I put the same springs on last week but didnt run the buggy. Tried my 777 again and made a decision to run the D8 in the RC Pro Finals.
What was your complete set up with the Kyosho light green springs besides the springs?

[gatermaxx]

Front
Diff 5000 shock 450 white springs
stock settings on links, +1.5 toe out -1.5 camber bones above level, shocks 97mm
center
5000
rear
diff 2000 shock 400 kyosho lime green buggy front springs no preload
6 hole (all the way in and down)tower, outer hole hub, upper hole hub, -2 camber bones just below level, hubs forward

I might have 400 front, and 450 rear, Hmm, need to go and check that....

[Supralative]

thanks
I misread your post.
You put them in the rear and I put them in the front just to see. Comes up just abit too high for my liking, but might settle in a good height during the race. I found that the white springs up front with some usage on it didnt quite rebound to where my settings where when clean or unused.

[kyoshorunner]

Ran my d8 for the first time today all I can say is WOW! by the second tank it was running better than my Kanai 3 ever did. Iam very happy with the way the buggy handles hope its durable.:rock:

[Supralative]

Changed my stuff on the D8 today.
5-5-3 in diffs
Losi 45wt with Losi black springs front 1.4 pistons
Losi 40wt with Kyosho light green front springs rear 1.3 pistons
Link settings are from Tessman
Will test this set up next weekend with the Trinity and 086 pipe
also switched over to a complete Kyosho clutch set up with the
Kyosho 16T CB all aluminum shoes with two 1.1's and one .95

[LUV DA AIR]

Ran my d8 for the first time today all I can say is WOW! by the second tank it was running better than my Kanai 3 ever did. Iam very happy with the way the buggy handles hope its durable.:rock:looking forward to see it run saturday.:rock:

[scoobie]

Well, after my first real race with the HB, Im happy to say that the car is pretty damn good. I finished 3rd tonight, and would have done better had I been able to be more consistent. The track was a mine field, and the D8 did real well considering. I had a couple little problems, but they were all self inflicted. I did put the longer steering link rod ends on the rear shocks and ran full droop front and rear. I also made a couple of minor setup changes...the car is good. Now its up to me.

[Supralative]

Got the body back from the painter.

What you guys think?

http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20013%20Small.jpg
http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20016%20Small.jpg
http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20017%20Small.jpg

[gatermaxx]

nice!!!:rock:

[scoobie]

Very nice lid!

[BIG RED]

very nice, what wing washers are those?

[Supralative]

very nice, what wing washers are those?


All from the old OFNA Hyper 7 days hehee.
Crazy that I still had those around.

[scoobie]

Well, Ive got about a gallon on my car. This is what Ive broken/fixed so far...

The first day out I broke one of the steering turnbuckle ends, which I fixed with the steering link ends from the LSP. They are a little beefier all the way around and seem to be holding up well.

The second failure was at my first race with the car, and was caused by a hard front end impact. The front end lower/rear hingepin block pulled the screw out of the bulkhead, which in turn bent a hinge pin. I bent it back, and its been good, but I should put in a new bulkhead, cause the screw is vibrating loose after very little runtime.

At the same race, in a 25 minute main, I lost a screw from a steering knuckle. The screw threads into a plastic c-hub, and when I tried to thread a new screw back in, I found the hole was stripped. I replaced all the screws in the steering knuckles with 4mm button head screws that were a couple of mm longer so they get a little more bite in the plastic. Ive put about 1000cc of fuel through it since the screw swap and so far, they are still tight...

The biggest break was last weekend. I was getting stupid, got out of shape in the air and landed on the right rear wheel. It wasnt a hard crash, but the car must have really got tweaked when it landed, cause it broke the left rear CVD bone...but HB knows there is a problem with some of the CVD's and from what Ive been reading, they are taking care of the problems, no questions asked, so Im not really that concerned.

With that being said, now Im wondering if there is another brand CVD or universal that could be used instead of the stock HB parts. The HB bone is 91mm and after looking at amain, I dont see the measurements listed for most of the other brands. Ive read that Jammin parts work, also the Sportwerks bones will supposedly work...Im going to call in a favor and see if I can get some measurements taken.

Lets hope the new HB parts fix the problem...

[Supralative]

Sportwerks work but they are better in the front than rear.
They are technically just a tad long. If you were to land on
one wheel and really fully compressed the shock in, it would press
into the outdrives from the diffs and cause some pressure inside.
I broke one CVD so far too, but Hotbodies has taken care of me
really well.
My first major problem has now happened with the rear shock tower.
I bent it forward of all things. Not sure how it happened with all of
my wrecking...LOL but I am gonna try a carbon fiber tower or towers
and see if it helps out.

[scoobie]

how did you contact HB, and who did you talk to?

If they are just a tad long at 91mm, I wonder if the 777 front end unis will work, they are 90.7...and much lighter.

[Supralative]

how did you contact HB, and who did you talk to?

If they are just a tad long at 91mm, I wonder if the 777 front end unis will work, they are 90.7...and much lighter.


Go to their site and use the email contact link.
I have been dealing with Andrew and he has been very good.
Kyosho fit also, but just a tad long. You will also need to drill out the cross pin hole to hold the hub on or use the Kyosho hubs if you do not want to drill the hole larger.

[gatermaxx]

HB should take care of you quick scoob, sorry I haven't been much help on here lately, been trying to not become a single man...

[scoobie]

Uh oh...the woman found out about your new cars did she???

I emailed customer service, havent heard back yet. The email prompt suggested that I call them directly....

[gatermaxx]

I would call. No, has absolutely nothing to do with rc cars, unfortunately...

[Supralative]

Uh oh...the woman found out about your new cars did she???

I emailed customer service, havent heard back yet. The email prompt suggested that I call them directly....


They should get to you soon.
I had to wait abit also.

I am working with a machinist to get some stronger towers built front and rear. Plan on using the Kyosho Big Bores also to test them out on this buggy. So far the D8 is good for me. Steering is great...just abit more rear traction and its gonna the one.

[scoobie]

No, has absolutely nothing to do with rc cars, unfortunately...

:thinking:Ahhh....she found out about the other woman:cry3d:

[gatermaxx]

I almost wish there was another woman, LMAO. Might get to use my D8 this weekend at a club race, be nice to get it out and run again...

[Grasshopper]

So far I am liking the D8 a lot. I put some blue springs on the rear and it seemed to keep the back end in line better, coming out of the corners hard.
This buggy is great fun to drive.

I've already had 2 CVD pins come loose..... so only 4 more to go and the "new buggy woes" will be over! LOL. :D

No broken parts so far.

[Supralative]

Ran on a small indoor track last night. High traction and alot of throttle control racing.
Had the carbon fiber towes on and Kyosho shocks all around. 37.5wt with blue springs up front and 40wt with light green springs in rear. D8 was very NICE.
Might run today at the outdoor track and see how it does. Alot more loose out here so might have to change some things.

[nitroRCs]

sweet let us know how it goes... those things are LIGHT!

[kjhome9703]

Have a question, I will purchase my first 1/8 buggy after the first of the year(gotta take care of Xmas for the kids) I'm thinking of purchasing the D8. I have read most of the post to this thread and a few things stick out. First, with the exception of one person so far, everyone seems to like the D8 and you can not beat the cost. Also, outside of a few mods everyone who owns one are running them bos stock, they talk about how stable off of jumps they are and how much steering they have. My concerns are the suspension including the spindles and knuckles that are made of plastic. Has anyone had to replace them because of wear and how much running did they do before replacing them? I plan to do alot of practicing and don't want to spend practice time wrenching on it.

[scoobie]

Ive had some really harsh front end impacts, and so far, Ive had no probs with the steering knuckles...other than the screw hole that stripped out....


"....At the same race, in a 25 minute main, I lost a screw from a steering knuckle. The screw threads into a plastic c-hub, and when I tried to thread a new screw back in, I found the hole was stripped. I replaced all the screws in the steering knuckles with 4mm button head screws that were a couple of mm longer so they get a little more bite in the plastic. Ive put about 1000cc of fuel through it since the screw swap and so far, they are still tight...."

[kjhome9703]

Do you think that at some point HB or some other company will make aluminum knuckles? Would you invest in them if and when the time comes?

[Grasshopper]

I don't think the plastic is a cause for concern. I have not broken anything yet ( not that I crash very often :D ) and if they do break, they are sooo much cheaper to replace. I don't think they would break often, and a crash that would break them would potentially break something else on a car with aluminium components ( the stress would just be transfered to a different part )

For the price ... I think it's a no brainer. By far the best car out there in that price range. And a proven contender against all competition.

Go for it man! :rock:


I'm sure you will see King Headz and other companies making hop ups soon.
I do not feel the need for hop ups on my D8 right now.
I don't have a whole lot of time on the car yet though, to be honest.

[kjhome9703]

I thank you guys for all of the imput. Are there any tricky parts of the build besides the radio box that have been encountered?

[Grasshopper]

The only thing I can think of to suggest is that you:

dis-assemble the CVD's that come pre built with lock-tite and re-locktite them. I just checked mine and they seemed ok so I went ahead.
Now the pins are coming out ( as expected with all new vehicles )

The shocks went together better than any I have built.

Oh - the wing mounts are held in place with a screw through the rear shock tower into the wing strut and secured with a lock nut that sits inside the plastic of the wing mount.:confused: Why they didn't have the screw go all the way through the plastic and put a nut on the backside is beyond me. The lock nut on mine started to rotate inside the wing strut as soon as the screw got a bite into it.

not sure how to fix that problem. Epoxy the lock nut into the wing strut beforehand, or do something to keep that nut from rotating inside the plastic as you tighten the screw.


Minor complaint in an otherwise outstanding build process.



One of my wing mounts is still loose on the rear shock tower, I just run it that way.

Oh- and they do the same thing using lock nuts in the plastic of the battery box to secure the lid. I am not a fan of this either. I would glue those nuts in there, or they may fall out in the haste of a quick battery box entry on race day.

[scoobie]

I shoe goo'ed the nutz in place....






















































and now my finger is stuck!

(insert rim shot)

Seriously though, I did goo some of the locknuts in place so I wouldnt have to worry about them coming out.

One thing to watch out for during the build is not to get too carried away when your tightening down the screws...the plastic strip's easily.

Right now, there are no really good hopups available. www.xtremercracing.com (http://www.xtremercracing.com) has some carbon goodies for the D8, but none of them are really needed. Some hellfire parts supposedly work, and some other HB/Edit parts for the lightning series cars...but I dont think the car needs any more aluminum, it has it where it needs it.

Get a set of DE Racing front and rear skid plates (when they are available), some extra shock springs and shock oils in varying weights, some diff fluid in varying weights, and a spare set of 8x14x4mm bearings for the knuckles because the stock metal shield bearings they use on this part of the car wont last long. The rest of the bearings are awesome though. Also, get a extra set of 5x11x4mm clutch bearings...its not a bad idea to have some spare parts on hand, like front hinge pins (inner and outer), turnbuckle ends, maybe a couple extra CVD Bones...

[kjhome9703]

I will check back on this thread to see what new developements are happening, I'll be ready to purchase sometime is mid-January. One other thing I have been conflicted about in purchasing this vehicle though, all the people on this thread has purchased this vehicle and with the concerns about "Buying American", I was just wondering how much thouight that you put in your decision about it, if any?

[Supralative]

Here are the Xtreme RC Racing carbon fiber shock towers. Ran one race on them at an indoor high bite track and the car was dialed with the Kyosho Big Bores. So far its a good switch. Next race is the 14th Annual Lonestar Classic...hope all goes well down there.
Oh yea I got a Little Lady Luck in the buggy now too hehehe.

http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20033%20Small.jpg
http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20034%20Small.jpg
http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20035%20Small.jpg

[scoobie]

Supralative, what pistons/oil are you running in those? Whats the shock length, front/rear?

[Supralative]

The last race I did with the was 37.5 Losi front and 45et Losi rear.
The pistons are the stock ones that came with the Big Bore kit. I believe 6 hole 1.3...not 100% sure though.

I run 99mm up front and 102mm in the rear.

I just switched to 35wt Losi up front for a race this coming weekend. Right now feels too soft so we will see after practice or 1st round qualifying.

[gatermaxx]

hoping to get to run again this week, maybe wednesday while the wife is at work all day, adn I have the day off, and NO KIDS AT HOME< WOOHOO

[Supralative]

Yummy
think I am gonna have to try one these to save some weight
spur gear would be a good idea too hehehe

http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/hbd8lightchassis.jpg
http://www.neobuggy.net/images/News/hblights.jpg

[scoobie]

Those look NICE

Last night, I tried to use the KCar 48t lightweight spur in place of the stocker. It didnt quite work right, but the KCar spur is 3 grams lighter...

[cbonner99]

MAN there is a lot of machining done on that chassis. Wonder if the weight savings would be worth the loss of strength and rigidity?

[Supralative]

Seems like there still would be a good amount of strength and rigidity.
The parts that are not milled are still pretty thick.
Going by Kyosho milling and others the 4mm areas are alot wider then those mentioned.

[Grasshopper]

lightweight wheel hexes and spur gear sound cool

the rest is just $ pissed I would have to say.


I could be wrong though.

[nitroRCs]

yes some people would think that...but also some companies would also do that lol...

[Supralative]

Merry Christmas to all and a Happy New Year!!!!!
Got the new thicker 6mm at least D8 shock towers.
Shawn did a great job machining these suckers!!!!!!!
I will try to get them bolted on this weekend and test
them out the following weekend.
Here are some pics of them!!!!
If these all work well with no issues, we will try to get a
production run of these for fellow D8 racers.
I am thinking the thicker rear tower will really help on the
bending issues the stock tower was giving me.

http://members.cox.net/imageking/New%20Hotbodies%20D8%20Towers%20001%20Small.jpg

http://members.cox.net/imageking/New%20Hotbodies%20D8%20Towers%20002%20Small.jpg

[scoobie]

Those look sweet...How did the Extreme towers hold up for you?

Also, how the hell are you bending rear towers???

[Supralative]

Those look sweet...How did the Extreme towers hold up for you?

Also, how the hell are you bending rear towers???


HHEHEHEEEE
Xtreme Carbon ones are good, but we ended up cracking a rear one right where the aluminum ones were bending.
I guess we are just that good at wrecking on our lid:thumbs:.
Xtreme front tower is good and is still fine.
I know a few others have bent their stock rear towers too:D.
I got fingers crossed on these for the rears...but the work on them is amazing. :huba:

[scoobie]

yeah, those towers look really nice. Is he making them in both standard and long lengths?

[nitroRCs]

I agree!!!...they should stop the bending easily!!!

[Supralative]

yeah, those towers look really nice. Is he making them in both standard and long lengths?

He is working on the taller tower.
As soon as he gets those done, I will try to get some pics for you guys.

[Nitrofin]

Wow those look really nice , looks like they will hold up, i just purchased the D8 & getting ready for the build iv'e done a lot of reading on it. please put me on the list when they are ready can't wait to see the taller tower . i'd appreciate it.
Nitrofin

[Supralative]

Prices will be as follows:
$25 each per front or rear
$30 for each extended rear tower
Prices will be shipped in the US
overseas shipping will be slightly more
paypal users please add in the 3.9% fee

[Supralative]

Here are a few quick snaps of the new towers mounted on the D8.
If anyone needs any better shots, let me know. Sorry about the dirty condition of the buggy. I will get it cleaned up once some warmer weather
comes around here.

http://members.cox.net/imageking/New%20Hotbodies%20D8%20Towers%20004%20Small.jpg

http://members.cox.net/imageking/New%20Hotbodies%20D8%20Towers%20005%20Small.jpg

http://members.cox.net/imageking/New%20Hotbodies%20D8%20Towers%20006%20Small.jpg

[scoobie]

from S-Grid

http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj86/m2cracing/8910M2C.jpg (http://s270.photobucket.com/albums/jj86/m2cracing/?action=view&current=8910M2C.jpg)

M2C racing has a new front lower hinge pin kit that captures the hinge pin on both ends and keep the front rear block from poping out the hinge pins. the pins are captured with 3mm nuts. Made with 01 tool steel and hardened for long life. part no.8910 price 12.00

[nitroRCs]

WOW...supra they look awesome!!!...im loving the look of those big bores!!!...what brand are they??...or are they stock?

[gatermaxx]

Jees, a brother loses internet for a few weeks and all kinds of crazy stuff goes on...

[Supralative]

WOW...supra they look awesome!!!...im loving the look of those big bores!!!...what brand are they??...or are they stock?


Those are Kyosho Big Bore shocks.
I got an email from a member but accidentally deleted it.
They were wondering what shock would have to be used with
the taller rear tower.
Hotbodies sells 112mm shocks for the rear and those would be the one you would want to use.
If anyone wants to try the longer rear tower and needs some shocks, let me know.
I have a pair of the Hotbodies 112mm rear shocks and can get you guys the taller rear tower too.

[nitroRCs]

THX supra thats some nice info!!!

[Supralative]

Here is the latest batch of WB-RACER-ACE towers!!!
Look killer and pretty durable too hehee. I also have
the extend rear tower, but just need to get some
ST-RR front big bores to run with that tower.

http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20041%20Small.jpg
http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20042%20Small.jpg

Here are the VP Pro Tire shots to show just how wide the rears are compared to standards.

http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20040%20Small.jpg

And just a shot of it all because I am bored hehehe

http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20049%20Small.jpg

[BIG RED]

what driveshafts are you using?

[nitroRCs]

They look durable ALRIGHT!!!...let us know how they go :D

[Supralative]

BIG RED still running some orignal runs HB's and some Sportwerks ones too.
I have broken the HB's but its ok, they are working on them.

nitroRCs they are very nice towers and handle alot of abuse honestly

[BIG RED]

I just got off the phone with them, they will only give you 1 new bone for every one that you break. Why would I want 3 light cv's and 1 heavy one? That kinda sucks

[scoobie]

Red, what I said that got me 4 new replacement bones, was "I dont want my next day at the track to end like my last one...", try it and see if it works.

Supra, do you have a part number? I dont think Sportwerks changed the bones when they updated the car, so all the parts are probably the same, but a part number would eliminate any question.

Any D8 driver should chamfer the inside edge of the axle. Since I did that, I havent broken a bone. Also, replace the barrel and pin every gallon or so. It seems that once the barrel and pin get some wear in them, the chance of breaking is dramatically increased.

I didnt break a bone for a while, then shortly after I hit the gallon mark, I broke at least one bone every outing. I bought two updated 3.5mm bones, and contacted HB and got 4 new replacements. Since then Ive broken the two I bought and two of the replacements.

The funny thing, is two of my bones are original kit parts...So from my experience, it seems to be a defect in material quality, not design. Even though the two stock bones that havent broken have the shiny ring where the axle is rubbing, they havent broke.

[Supralative]

Supra, do you have a part number? I dont think Sportwerks changed the bones when they updated the car, so all the parts are probably the same, but a part number would eliminate any question.



Cant remember off hand but I got the packaging at my buddy's place.
I will check for you this weekend. They are just a tad longer than the HB ones so if you land one wheel real compressed the do push into the out drives abit...very minimal though.

[scoobie]

Combine these parts with the Fioroni parts to build a lightweight D8 with tons of aftermarket bling, for the cost of a stock major brand buggy...even though I said I would never pimp out a car again, when I can swing it, Im going to give it a shot.

http://images.amainhobbies.com/images/small/hbs67211.jpg (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34527)
Hot Bodies Light Weight Differential Axle Shaft (2) (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34527)

http://images.amainhobbies.com/images/pixel_trans.gifhttp://images.amainhobbies.com/images/small/hbs67203.jpg (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34525)
Hot Bodies Light Weight Steering Bushing (2) (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34525)

http://images.amainhobbies.com/images/pixel_trans.gifhttp://images.amainhobbies.com/images/small/hbs67202.jpg (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34524)
Hot Bodies Light Weight Shock Standoffs (2)

http://images.amainhobbies.com/images/small/hbs67200.jpg (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34523)
Hot Bodies Light Weight Differential Shaft (2) (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34523)

http://images.amainhobbies.com/images/small/hbs67198.jpg (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34522)
Hot Bodies Light Weight Brake Cam (2) (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34522)

http://images.amainhobbies.com/images/pixel_trans.gifhttp://images.amainhobbies.com/images/small/hbs67197.jpg (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34521)
Hot Bodies Light Weight Out Drives (2) (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34521)

[scoobie]

http://images.amainhobbies.com/images/pixel_trans.gifhttp://images.amainhobbies.com/images/small/hbs67196.jpg (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34520)
Hot Bodies Light Weight Wheel Hex (2) (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34520)

http://images.amainhobbies.com/images/small/hbs67195.jpg (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34519)
Hot Bodies Light Weight Steering Posts (2) (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34519)

http://images.amainhobbies.com/images/small/hbs67191.jpg (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34518)
Hot Bodies Light Weight Spiral Bevel Gear (43T) (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/34518)

[jamminbob]

Hey guys just buy a Losi 8 2.0 and forget about all of the BS it will make you a way better driver and it :rctruck:wont break

[scoobie]

to each his own...

[BIG RED]

I would rather break a $10 cv bone than fry a $100 servo in a Losi:thumbs:

[Grasshopper]

Guys - I love my Hot Bodies...... never broken anything.

All your problems will be solved if you just DON'T CRASH ! :D









LOL!

[Grasshopper]

I would rather break a $10 cv bone than fry a $100 servo in a Losi:thumbs:


:eek:





And then there was silence..........


(insert cricket noises here )

[BIG RED]

That is the only part that has broken, it broke on a jump landing. I have put about another 1/2 gallon on it since, but I frequently check the setscrew in the cv and haven't had any more problems.

I am considering selling my D8 to focus on truggy this season, it is about 1.5 gallons old, if anyone has any interest let me know.

[Supralative]

Long time no post here.
I have a machinist that can lighten the outdrives, crown gears, spur gears, and chassis. I will post some pics when I get my chassis back from him.
Here is the latest batch of WB-RACER-ACE towers!!!
Look killer and pretty durable too hehee.

http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20041%20Small.jpg

http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20042%20Small.jpg

Here are the VP Pro Tire shots to show just how wide the rears are compared to standards up front. Finally got to test these tires out this past weekend and they are really good.

http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20040%20Small.jpg

And just a shot of it all because I am bored hehehe

http://members.cox.net/imageking/Hotbodies%20D8%20049%20Small.jpg

One last big pic showing it in action too.

http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss188/4Rotor/Action%20RC%20-%20Free%20For%20All/SonIMG_6317.jpg

[porkchop]

any one need the stock hot bodies wings in white i have 2 or 3 left i will sell for a good deal there new in package pm me for price

[Supralative]

Here is a shot of the ACE RC Products lightened chassis made by wb-racer-ace . Looks really nice in person!!!

http://members.cox.net/imageking/ACE%20D8%20Chassis%20Small.jpg

[Nevada]

Is anyone in NorCal Running this car anymore?

[tommy2112]

i think scoobie is still running the d8

[scoobie]

Yeah, still running it...

[Nevada]

Yeah, I was thinking about running one.

Need to get rid of my Associated stuff first.

[BIG RED]

John, they still have those drive shaft problems from what I hear, why don't you just get back into another Losi?

[tommy2112]

i would ask scoobie on the ups and downs on the d8 i know he did not finish the labor day race he broke something:confused:

[scoobie]

I didnt break, I had engine problems...I think I have a airleak somewhere, cause I fought engine issues all weekend. The only DNF I had due to a break was in the first round of qual's and I striped a servo horn (one of the cars weak links, fixed with the HB alum horn). I havent touched my stuff since the LDS race...

I havent had a driveshaft problem for quite a while, but I also have two complete sets, and I cycle them religiously, as well as replace the barrels and pins at the first sign of wear. Most of the problems with breaking driveshafts can be attributed to worn couplers, the "long rear shock end" mod, and setting the steering end points to full lock. HB has done a few running changes with the coupler material and the new parts dont wear nearly as fast as the original parts. They also have the WCE driveshafts and axles (http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=WCE&sort=pop&filter_mfr=32&filter_cat=952), as well as the DCJ center/front driveshaft (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/150741/n/Hot-Bodies-Center-Front-DCJ-Drive-Shaft-Set-1) that dramatically decrease the wear in the drivetrain. I have not used any of the new parts yet...

The D8 is a good car, and I like it, even with its quirks...that being said, if I had the money, I would be driving something different.

John, if you have any questions shoot me a PM and I will give you my unbiased opinion on the car...

[Nevada]

Thanks Scoob. I'm still looking into it.

[jamminbob]

No Offense But The Losi 2.0 is hard to beat!!! Real solid car :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

[tommy2112]

No Offense But The Losi 2.0 is hard to beat!!! Real solid car :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:


i most agree but yet i am partial to losi products anyways..... i had a rc8 and it took me forever to get it to work for me but i am not that good any ways ....lol

[BIG RED]

John, maybe you could make a name for the Tamiya rigs up in this area.:thumbs:

[Nevada]

Tamiya = $$$$

Red, did you have drive shaft problems with your D8?

[jamminbob]

He Did John Take scoobies advice the D8

[Nevada]

Still looking into my options.

[BIG RED]

Tamiya = $$$$

Red, did you have drive shaft problems with your D8?

In the mere 2 races that I used it, yes. I had one break at CVR and had to use Daniels RC8 for the main, that was really a disappointment as the car was only about 10-12 tanks old at the time.

[Nevada]

Maybe a Losi will be my next car.

[Dave D]

I was reading on Casters site that one ofthe drivers had driven HB before and he said in order to get it to work and stay together it was 1/2 Kyosho.

[Dave D]

Still looking into my options.

Caster...lol
Had to throw that in there.

[Nevada]

Caster...lol
Had to throw that in there.

Maybe if they had a Team Manager that raced outside of Rescue.

[Dave D]

Maybe if they had a Team Manager that raced outside of Rescue.

They are working on that Now. Josh has stepped down as Team Manager.:rock: and I really don't see him staying with Caster for very Long. It will make life a lot easier on Many Many People if he switches to something else.

[scoobie]

There arent many (if any) parts between the D8 and SP2/WC that work right...IMO there is no reason to put KCar parts on the D8...some of the older 7.5 parts might work (like toe/squat plates), but I dont have any of those any more to test fit.

John, why you looking to get out from under the AE car? Im looking into my options and AE is one of them...

[Nevada]

The AE Cars are just not working for me and I think I need to switch.

[gatermaxx]

has anyone tried switching their d8 to a ve8? I think the chassis and motor mount are the only major differences, I am very tempted to try this out...
or does anyone know what else would need to be changed?

[gatermaxx]

chassis, radiotray, center diff, body and the front brace, I think I may buy these pieces and swap them out to try the ve8 out